🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end names. But, tucked high among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.